Got a little arvo glass yesterday, really nice little waves. Started at “the gap” and ended up paddling all the way down to guvo’s, surfed a few banks along the way and got a few little gems. The right at govo’s was working pretty well as the tide dropped, a little shifty but that could be attributed to the lump in the swell. A nice little glass off session, with a little bit of fitness coming back and ending with the numb fingers that tell you it’s time to get out of the water – mid winter.
Month: July 2010
Serious talent, questions the modern surfboard design completely, or maybe Tyler would rip just as hard on a coffee table?
My new board is complete, should be on it’s way this week; should have it next week. I’m like a kid on Christmas eve!
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anywhere else
If I could be anywhere else right now, this would probably hit the nail on the head – via http://theswallowtailsociety.tumblr.com
The wave I would have been better off surfing today, than the one I actually did…
When a surfer looks at a wave, they mind surf, “bottom turn, off the top, hook in the pocket – would I make that section? Floater through the close-out”. It’s the gauge of how good the session might be, the deciding factor in paddling out, or driving further down the coast, or even calling it a day. The optimist is often drawn out when conditions are less than favourable, and we’ll often talk ourselves into a surf that on first inspection, was maybe not worth the effort…
I did a quick surf check this arvo while I was out and about, and if I had time I probably would have talked myself into this micro left bank that was reeling off. I have always thought it was good for your surfing to surf small waves, it makes you work for everything and be in the right place at the right time, to extract what minimal power is available.
I started writing this more than 12 months ago and never got to the point of publishing it. I think I have mellowed even more than what the below text reflects, or maybe it’s winter in Victoria and 99% of the character types mentioned are taking their winter break from surfing so I don’t have to deal with them at the moment…
Nothing better than getting a few waves on the Monday after the end of the school holidays, it confirms we have our beaches back to ourselves for a little while again. I think my form is improving a little too, not as frustrated as I was a couple of weeks back anyway. Fitness, better I think, still not good but a slight improvement from where I started.
5.15pm Eastern View
Winter is cold but I must say that wetsuits have come a very long way over the last handful of years.
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The late dash
Friday arvo, a quick splash before dark. Midsize swell, easterly lumps in it, strong sweep down the beach – let’s call it a fitness session shall we?
What are you looking for in surfing? Have you found it? Has what you are looking for changed over the years, I bet it has, and it will probably continue to as well…
