I started writing this more than 12 months ago and never got to the point of publishing it. I think I have mellowed even more than what the below text reflects, or maybe it’s winter in Victoria and 99% of the character types mentioned are taking their winter break from surfing so I don’t have to deal with them at the moment…
“What’s wrong with surfing?” A good question, inspired in part by an article I noticed in the latest Waves magazine, I am yet to read it, so it will be interesting to see if I draw a similar line.
Often it is travel that brings perspective, this is one such time, or maybe it is because I actually have a little time to stop and think? We are on the mid-north coast of NSW for a 2-week break, we are lucky to get away once a year so we really savour these opportunities.
Staying in the small coastal village of Crescent Head, surrounded by national parks and endless beaches, we are blessed with a small consistent swell that is enough to get the point going. We were here 2 years ago and not a lot has changed in that time.
So what is with the deep and meaningful question you ask? Well, sitting in the line up of a long point break you see a few things happening and they always have to a degree.
Guys on shortboards that are wanna-be pro surfers, but all they have is the ego, the right wetsuit and stickers on the board, enough ability to punt an air but never really make a landing. Every wave is theirs, and everyone else is just wasting their time. They won’t be pro suffers, only when you see someone that totally blows your mind, and I mean a total freak, do they have a chance of going anywhere with surfing, other than becoming a sales rep for a surf-wear company (who earn every penny they make, I might add). Get over it boys, being RAD in small village doesn’t mean squat in the real world, it is ridiculously tight at the top level of surfing, only a handful of people can make a living surfing, even less do well out of it.
“Welcome back” surfers, guys that never really surfed “properly” when they were young and free, but can walk in and buy a 10′ wave magnet, paddle around everyone, take off really early and stand stiff and tall all the way to the beach, often with a grimace on their face as if the deck of the board was covered in razor blades! Happy to mow down small children if they happen to be in the set flight path…
The rough old local, these guys come in a couple of flavours. They can be old rippers that never stopped surfing (usually highly financially impaired in connection with this fact) or guys that never really got that well in tune with the ocean but have always been there on and off enough not to fall into the “welcome back” category. These 2 versions of the old local can fall either side of the tree. There are the guys that resent anyone that shows up at “their beach” (I hope they never travel) and will relentlessly paddle to the inside every single time, they will burn their mates, they burn everyone! The flip side is the other guy that gets great waves through local knowledge without getting in anyone’s way all day.
The tourist (insert Wicked camper/van packer) often a gem in the lineup, not always in the right place at the right time but as a traveller has the advantage of great perspective, understanding and even a hint of respect for others in the water. Often accompanied by “learn to surf girlfriend” who he drags out to the heaviest, most aggressive and competitive break he can find, then calls her into a set wave, dropping in on the grumpiest old local prick in the water. This may be the travellers only, or greatest downfall.
The soul-man, the retro board revolution or revival (not sure which to call it) has produced a few guys that are riding these boards well, maybe the boards have improved as the marketing suggests? In any case, there is some soul knocking around. Unfortunately, they can also fall into the “young gun” cat as well, having a massive chip on the old shoulder because they feel that they are throwing down some crazy retro action for all to be amazed by.
I’ve been one or two of these people in my time, I am not immune to ever being a knob. Everybody is young and dumb, or old and grumpy at some point, it just lasts a little longer for some. I do feel that I have more perspective now with a young family, less time and greater commitments. I really value my time in the water. And that is where I sit, taking it in. There is nothing like having a chat with someone new in the water and sharing a few waves. Letting a wave go and having one-handed right back to you is great, and sure beats the hassling shit fight that goes on most days at popular breaks around the world.
Sounds like a bit of a whinge? Well, there is more to come (hopefully not more whinging), how did we get here? We need to look at surf culture and how it helped produce these personalities.
The surf industry has a lot to answer for, some good, some not so, they probably didn’t intend for things to turn out the way they have and they probably never would have thought their companies share price would be the biggest driving force as these surf industry moguls move towards retirement. I bet they wish they were more worried about the surf report than the GFC.
Surfing is for everyone, unfortunately not everyone should surf… Modern society doesn’t seem to translate into the line-up as well as it used to – maybe I’m just getting old and respect is a silly ideology lost to time? One thing’s for sure, I’ll keep giving waves away and enjoy the good karma in return, that’s the way I’d like it to be.
