I found this old 6×9 the other day and it’s now sitting on my desk, it takes me back 15+ years. Love this line-up, jumping off the pier for the long paddle out to the point, infamous big wave spot in the distance. Much simpler times, lines stacked to the horizon and no one out…
This little area of the world is very near and dear to the hearts of many surfers, a special place that needs the surf communities help in this time of need.
“SurfAid International is launching an emergency appeal in response to the devastating tsunami that hit the Mentawai Islands, off West Sumatra, Indonesia.
Reports of extensive damage and loss of life continue to filter in and SurfAid is conducting search, assessment and response operation.”
Super fun inside left at the grassy knoll a few weeks back, mid week and basically empty. Unexpected waves are often the best. This little sand bank showed up after some serious storm activity and faded away over the following week. Waves may not break in the same spot again for a long period of time, that’s one of the most enjoyable aspects of surfing, the unexpected reward that’s hard to repeat.
The Tomo is going great, I did have a bit of a hole in my backhand surfing on it. I think that was mainly related to being spoiled for choice of recent, and surfing a heap of lefts, starting to get more dialled on the backhand every surf now. More soon when I get a chance… The board is certainly peaking some interest amongst other surfers, mainly once they have seen me riding it, so I guess that means it goes ok? If it went like crap I don’t think they’d be so inquisitive.
Fun little rights, a little cross shore, could have been miles from anywhere – a false calm before the mental summer storm no doubt. May be a wave in the morning before the wind swings onshore for the weekend, great.
Scored super fun waves tonight down along the “view”. Local crowd only, 2 to 3 foot with a couple of good banks running off. Not all time but if you got the right one, there were some very nice walls there for the shreding.
Great way to see out a perfect spring afternoon. Looks like all the fun is about to end, according to the forecast, onshore mush here we come…
Probably ten years ago, during my short residency in Melbourne, chasing the elusive corporate graphic design experience and the dot com “boom-crash-opera”. Mid summer, mid week, and stuck in the city,the surf cult/classic Big Wednesday was playing at the Moonlight cinema in the Botanic gardens, a short walk from where we were living. A handful of Uni mates, all surfers, and all feeling the restrain of the city, made a night of it.
A baking hot summer night in the city, a soothing ale, the romanticism of a classic surf movie and the temptation of potential waves the next day; far from our air-conditioned, concrete cubicles proved too much for at least two of us that night. A plan was hatched, to stooge “the man” for a day and head off on a guilty little sojourn to the east coast beaches of Victoria.
We’d probably call it s dam around these parts.
Ridiculous and amazing, composure, and unfaltering confidence in extremely challenging conditions – he is the master, no doubt.