As another year races towards the finish line – with the seemingly ever building pace, a side effect of a full and busy life? Family, art, work, house renovating and surfing enough to hopefully keep the mid-section from expanding too far… It only takes a moment of contemplative reflection to remind us of the short time we have on this earth, and that enjoying that time in a positive, productive and proactive manner is vital to a happy life, what more could you really want?
Above: a little smudge of a wave I surfed a couple of weeks back, the small glimmer of new swell on a wedgy little bank, the strong cross-shore wind blowing right into it. Almost uninviting, you might describe it but surfing is almost always better than not surfing. I had a ball out there on my own in the wind and the chop, figuring out where to sit and which bump would run across the bank with a reasonable shape to it. It’s funny how exceeded expectations can make your day, fun.
Time to seek out alternate waves for a few weeks as the bulk of this states population heads to the beach, clogs the road and the line-ups, hopefully, expectations can be exceeded again, maybe a few times.
Happy festive season!
