We’d probably call it s dam around these parts.
Author: my surfing essentials
Ridiculous and amazing, composure, and unfaltering confidence in extremely challenging conditions – he is the master, no doubt.
Surfing is a very special thing, no one owns surfing, no one dictates how it should be done and by who (although some do try) “God Went Surfing With the Devil” is a truly inspiring story of surfing in the Gaza Strip.
“God Went Surfing With the Devil” charts the difficulties and dangers encountered by surfers in the region. Along the way it speaks to Israelis, Arab-Israelis, and Palestinians affected by the violence, charting their daily struggle to supersede the conflict through the joys of surfing.
Discovered via Korduroy.tv
In a world of mass production, and mass consumption, it is nice to put the focus back on something positive and soul-full. Andrew Wells hand crafts wooden surfboards from his workshop “Grown surfboards” grownsurfboards.com.au in Ballina, on the North Coast of NSW.
Through his love of surfing, he came across an article on timber boards as an alternative to standard foam surfboards, and his interest was instantly kindled. He decided to combine his skill for woodwork and his passion for surfing, and hit the shed to give shaping timber boards a go.
He insists on using recycled timber because he loves the individual character and personality it adds to each board, each piece of wood has its own unique story and history, and its beauty is unsurpassed.
GUINNESS® scoured the country and hand picked three men who represent the fine balance between style and substance. The men they chose are both artisans and innovators; their work is modern, but will never go out of style; they are forward thinkers, yet employ timeless methods and manners. They were chosen because they effortlessly meld tradition with modernity “ just like GUINNESS®.
Check out Andrew’s profile on the GUINNESS® Black List website for more info.
It will be interesting to watch the bigger surf brands jumping on the alternative wagon as this scene progresses, and gains momentum. Not to say that the core guys, at the creative pointy ends of these brands aren’t already heavily entrenched in said scene; more a matter of engagement of this culture as a vehicle for selling product, making sense in the boardroom.
A little paradoxical maybe? Hip young surfers following an alternative path; against the mainstream (surf), only to be picked up by the masters of the universe and wielded as weapons in the battle for the retail dollar – time will tell. I think we can still enjoy the ride no matter the outcome, it’s the journey, not the destination after all.
etnies | A Day In The Life | Part 1 from etnies Australia on Vimeo.
I’ve had 2 of the worst surfs of the year, in the last week. Conditions and timing just not working in my favour at all, we joked that it will make the next surf seem really good! I can’t remember the last time I surfed onshore slop in consecutive sessions, well I can but I’ve blocked it out… The swell just keeps kicking on too, pretty relentless, can only imagine what it would be like without these strong onshore winds.
Planning to repeat the tradition I’m building with Johnsy and paddle out for a quite sess as the AFL grand final kicks off.
So nice to see, reduce, reuse, re… Spotted on korduroy.tv
Afternoon light.
Surfing has come so far…
It did hail a little just before I got out of the car to get changed, very squally wind, up to 40 knots. Wetsuits have come a long way I have to say, only the exposed extremities felt the bitter bite of the frosty air firing down from the Victorian Alps.