Author: my surfing essentials

When a surfer looks at a wave, they mind surf, “bottom turn, off the top, hook in the pocket – would I make that section? Floater through the close-out”. It’s the gauge of how good the session might be, the deciding factor in paddling out, or driving further down the coast, or even calling it a day. The optimist is often drawn out when conditions are less than favourable, and we’ll often talk ourselves into a surf that on first inspection, was maybe not worth the effort…

I did a quick surf check this arvo while I was out and about, and if I had time I probably would have talked myself into this micro left bank that was reeling off. I have always thought it was good for your surfing to surf small waves, it makes you work for everything and be in the right place at the right time, to extract what minimal power is available.

Nothing better than getting a few waves on the Monday after the end of the school holidays, it confirms we have our  beaches back to ourselves for a little while again. I think my form is improving a little too, not as frustrated as I was a couple of weeks back anyway. Fitness, better I think, still not good but a slight improvement from where I started.

5.15pm Eastern View

Winter is cold but I must say that wetsuits have come a very long way over the last handful of years.

What are you looking for in surfing? Have you found it? Has what you are looking for changed over the years, I bet it has, and it will probably continue to as well…

Time for a new board (as mentioned), didn’t want to go any more “Fishy” and reduce performance potential, and I couldn’t come at going back to a performance short board (although I won’t rule that out ever happening). I am looking for an alternative, yet progressive – not regressive, feeling in my surfing. I am chasing feel, fun, and progression in a mature, free-surfing direction. I want to see and feel new sensations, explore the potential of alternative surf craft but in a very targeted manner. If I find myself on a board that goes worse than anything previous, I’ll be quick to move on.

I’ve never surfed in a competition and I doubt I ever will, I understand the drive behind competitive surfing and the industry it has supported and in some ways, justified and delivered to the masses, yet this is not what surfing is to me.

Surfing to me is; waves that are better than expected, shared amongst a few friends (or even random surfers that happen to be on the same page), getting as much joy out of seeing your buddies score, as scoring yourself. Those unexpected moments, that provide bursts of clarity and beams of shameless joy. In the selfish pursuit, of the pure self indulgent pleasure, that is surfing.

What are you looking for?

Got a few waves last night before dark, really confirmed my lack of surf fitness, and obviously general surfing form – ouch. With the new board on it’s way I need to make some moves to address at least the fitness aspect. 5’10 x 18 3/4″ x 2 1/4″ is going to be less foam than I currently have under me, so I assume harder to paddle, add the 4×3 wettie and cold water, another dimension to the required output to gain desired result.

More surfing and possibly some additional cardio work in need I think…

It’s been a while, it’s about time I tried something a little different I think? Variety is the spice of life… Ordered a new custom this week, I’ll be like a kid on Christmas morning when it’s ready!

Wouldn’t mind a little time on one of these. Taylor Knox would rip on just about anything though, probably not a true indication of the board under just any old feet!

Taylor Knox – 5 Fin Bonzer – Mexico from Campbell Brothers Surfboards on Vimeo.