Day: Friday 6th Feb 2009
Time: 7pm
Location: Eastern View
Wind: Light ENE cross shore
Swell: 1-2 foot building swell
Something else: love those moments when you score a little peace when you don’t expect it.
Conditions: we have had zero waves all week, to be expected in this neck of the woods at this time of the year, summer is never ideal on the west coast unless you get in the car and get really serious about chasing it! Hard to do with work, house, family commitments – oh to be a teenage surf bum again… Surfed an interesting little bank, really close to the beach, kind-of right in the easterly trench, made a few right through this second super sucky section, bloody good fun. The water is close to as good as it gets in Vico at the moment, too hot in the 3-2 tonight, I can feel some boardies coming on…
Vibe: classic evening glass, conditions improving with every set, myself and one other guy out at this break. No words exchanged, just a knowing smile and a nod.
